While inclusive shade ranges and products for textured hair are more frequent topics of conversation in the beauty space, the skincare needs of people of color can feel less front and center. One brand that has sought to rectify that since its inception is Eadem. Perhaps best known for its Milk Marvel Dark Spot Serum, the brand is dedicated to meeting the needs of skin of color. The duo behind it, Marie Kouadio Amouzame and Alice Lin Glover, have made it a mission to formulate the products they always wished they had (kind of a “for us, by us” type of thing).
And now, joining that product lineup, which also includes the Dew Dream Cleansing Balm and Cloud Cushion Moisturizer, is the new Cashmere Peel Toner ($42). Read on for all the details and for our preliminary review.
The Product
As anyone with melanated skin knows, exfoliation is a bit of a balancing act—the very products that are supposed to help banish your hyperpigmentation can end up making things worse. Kouadio Amouzame has experienced this firsthand: “I grew up in Paris, and there are certain French products that are considered the holy grail of exfoliation. While some of those products promise remarkable results, they often come with drawbacks–they can sting, damage the skin barrier, have overpowering scents, and are challenging to find,” she says. “This potency can exacerbate hyperpigmentation, particularly on skin of color.”
Enter Cashmere Peel, which is formulated to help slough dead skin cells, unclog pores, and reveal a brighter visage without being too abrasive. “It effectively prevents pimples without triggering hyperpigmentation, all while delivering a superior exfoliation experience,” says Kouadio Amouzame.
The Formula
Cashmere Peel’s ingredient list reads like a who’s who of gentler exfoliators and acids, including azelaic acid, lactic acid, tranexamic, and gluconolactone. Rice water and colloidal oatmeal extract round out the main ingredients, ensuring the “skin feels nourished and confident, rather than irritated,” says Lin Glover. “Unlike many exfoliants that strip away moisture along with dead skin cells, our new toner maintains the skin’s moisture barrier,” she continues, adding that the infusion of rice water and colloidal oatmeal extract “supports and hydrates the skin without causing any damage.”
The resulting formula “gently removes dead, darkened skin cells (hyperpigmentation) while simultaneously replenishing moisture and restoring luminosity to the skin,” says Lin Glover. And, as is often the case, formulating with skin of color top of mind benefits many: “We’ve considered various skin types, including acne-prone, combination, melanin-rich, mature, and dry skin,” she says. “By designing with skin of color as our primary focus, we ensure that our products are effective and suitable for all skin types and tones, including the most sensitive.”
Of course, as gentle as Cashmere Peel is, it’s still an exfoliant. As such, Kouadio Amouzame and Lin Glover suggest taking some precautions: “We recommend starting [at] two to three times a week to allow your skin to adjust to the formula (avoid using it on days when you use retinol),” says Lin. “And remember, SPF every day, without fail!”
My Review
I’ll preface this by letting it be known that my skin is pretty tough, and I experience irritation very infrequently. And that’s as someone who tries new products for a living! With that caveat: This toner is so gentle I half expected it to ask me about my feelings. I’ve been using it a few times a week—again, my skin can take it—and haven’t experienced any tingling, redness, or other tell-tale signs of irritation. The formula is super elegant; it was thicker than I expected (the brand does describe it as “milky,” to be fair) but still lightweight with a fast dry down.
While it takes months to see significant improvement in hyperpigmentation, I’m more than willing to keep at it to see the results. I’m a devoted user of the brand’s other offerings—the Milk Marvel Serum is among my all-time favorite skincare products—and with a formula this gentle and sophisticated, at the very least, I’ve got a gorgeous new serum to look forward to using every few nights.
Eadem’s Cashmere Peel Toner is available now at Eadem.co and Sephora.com starting March 12.